Subsonic filter diy8/14/2023 I guess it would be good to keep those useless subsonics out of the amp chain right from the start and again right before the amp. If you start at a fantasy point, like 18 Hz, you end up cutting too little. since there is likely to be a little bump at that point (good) and no real cut till below 20 Hz. However, the best thing about finding the best place for your speakers- you'll find yourself just listening or watching, not thinking about it.Hard for any manufacturer to make and to advertize an amp with any diminution in the 20-20k band.īut, in my fairly long experience, you really want a really really sharp cutoff (like 36dB/8ave) and you really need it to start somewhere north of 20 Hz, like 25. For music, you'll hear large differences in sound quality, even if the speakers are in the best location because they weren't all mixed to a particular standard, like THX, Dolby surround, etc. ![]() Small changes often make a big difference and once you find their 'happy place', you'll be able to stop messing with the controls. IMO, the need to change the sound for every movie means that you need to find the best location for your speakers. Opening doors and windows in a house makes similar changes happen, to a different degree. Close the windows and the sound will change drastically. Sitting in a car, your position is similar to being in the chamber of a bandpass box between the woofer and port to the outside world and by adjusting the windows, it's tunable. The TC woofer shows the Vas as 8.5 ft³- that's very large and if it's driven hard in a vented box, it won't handle much power at low frequencies because it will vibrate too wildly.Ĭlick to expand.Regardless of cone movement, a car is a very different environment from a room- in principal, it's similar (a speaker box firing into another space) but the dimensions and scale are far from the same. Less air that's compressed by some percentage (without squeezing it into a storage tank of some kind) will be considered 'stiffer' and a larger volume of air will be softer if it's compressed by the same percentage. This is because air can be compressed, but only to a specific extent. Put it in a larger sealed box and thump the cone- you'll find that it vibrates at a different frequency. Put a woofer in a small, sealed box and thump the cone- the air inside will vibrate at a certain frequency. To give you an idea of what that spec means, it's called 'equivalent volume' and it relates to the 'springiness' of the suspension. Add the high compliance and Xmax and it definitely shows a need to be in a sealed enclosure. Looking at the parameters in the other thread, the Vas alone tells me this woofer needs to be in a sealed enclosure. A much better vented box would be about 4 cubic ft.Ĭlick to expand.They're right- the answer is No. ![]() In any case, you would be better served with a smaller box. Without knowing how your subwoofer crossover is designed, can only speculate on what other issues you might hear. The design has an ugly group delay and other issues. However, despite the cabinet size, you are not getting the best performance from that woofer. My earlier calculations were for a cylindrical vent. If am correctly understanding your stated box size, that vent is tuned to 20 Hz. Ps Missed this further on in your thread: Some box/driver combos do use protective high pass filters below tuning.some don't need it.and you may not have content that low to worry about it.yet? While needing eq to get to subwoofer territory, the box would be much easier to get right." ![]() This would be a difficult box to do well as it needs really thick walls and significant bracing.Īs stated earlier, a more optimal box for this subwoofer is a 2.5 sealed one. These results are BassBox Pro simulation.īassBox Pro set for extended bass requires a 7.4 cu ft box tuned to 20 Hz. "Right now, your box is tuned to about 13 Hz. Looking at your other thread did some calculating for you and arrived at the conclusion your box was tuned to 13hz for your driver:
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